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The Gumby Chronicles Part 2

On December 29th, 2016, I underwent surgery on my right ankle as a result of an injury sustained during a 50K trail race in the winter of 2015. It was following the original injury that I decided I wanted to become a climber.  In the spring of 2016, the podiatrist gave me the option of either getting a cortisone shot or the surgery. Because I had a race a few weeks later, I took the shot. It helped but by the fall of 2016, I was living in Gimp City. 

Once I announced the date of my surgery and rehab time, things on the job went quickly south. Mistakes that I had made a year earlier were brought to my attention. I "socialized" too much as well. My main fault I believe was that I had made the mistake of growing old. This, despite my being in better shape than all but 1-2 people in the entire office. So, I was laid off with a couple of months pay to take care of my rehab. 

According to the podiatrist, the surgery went well. I spent the first few days on the sofa and used crutches to get around. Taking a shower with plastic bags around my foot made for an interesting experience. Still by the end of the first week, I was doing pull-ups in my garage and by the second week, I was lifting weights at the gym.

Maybe not so surprisingly, the difficult part of my rehab was the mental and emotional depression I've experienced. Being inactive and not having a definitive date when I could climb or run again was difficult to deal with. In my immediate family, only one son in-law climbed and his response was disappointment over not being able to climb together. Understandable. It's my belief that while having a partner that you can trust and believe in is the most important factor in climbing, the actual climbing is a solo endeavor no matter who is belaying.

So my conclusion, after meditating some time over this, was that my rehab is a solo climb and although people who have gone through this can give me their "beta" on the recovery process, it's up to me to figure out the moves that will take me back to the rope. 

And yes, I will comeback. More to come……………………………………………………

The Gumby Chronicles

THE GUMBY CHRONICLES PART 1

By

John Matney

It was only a few years ago that I discovered that I have a classic case of ADHD. All the symptoms listed on webmd.com were clear to me. From being easily distracted, to not listening to others, obsessing over a new hobby or interest to the exclusion of everything else and the ever popular compulsive behavior which has resulted in my being fired from a job or  getting traffic tickets for sudden changes in direction. Let me briefly describe my current obsession. Climbing.

After a lifetime of being a competitive runner, my ankles and knees suggested I try another sport. A week after my 60^th birthday, I went to a climbing gym with my son in-law. At the counter was a 20 something guy, thin to the point of looking like Ric Ocasek of the Cars band with really long black hair tied in a pony tail. “Hey, it’s cool you’re taking your Dad climbing with you” he said to my son in-law. I imagined what his comb over would look like in 20 years and smiled. “It was my idea,” I said.

Diablo Rock is the local gym where I go and is managed by the great climber Hans Florin. His name was familiar to me because when I would get together with my cousin Dave Altman, a noted Bay Area climber, the names would roll off his tongue-Ray Jardine, Ron Kauk and Hans. It was a subliminal education.   

All climbing gyms seem to have the same smell. It’s a combination of climbing chalk, sweaty clothes and the young. In American shopping malls, it’s the fat people that are in the majority so the sights and smells I associate with that are deep fried food and sugar being consumed by people stuffed into too small clothes as they spend a happy day in the pursuit of mindless consumption. In a climbing gym, it’s the opposite, the parents are watching their hyperactive kids or in rare cases, belaying their energetic 8 year olds up a 5.5 wall. Fit High school and college ages men and women climb or boulder with smiles on their faces.

At the time of this writing, I am celebrating my one year anniversary as a Gumby. Taking stock of my year, I wonder what’s happened in the last 12 months?

In the past year, I’ve bought 7 pairs of climbing shoes, hoping to find that perfect pair that doesn’t feel like a vise is clamped on my foot and allows me to use the footholds on an overhanging boulder problem. So far, no such thing as a perfect pair of climbing shoes exists, at least for me. I have plenty of climbing tee shirts and pants. My thick overpriced cotton climbing shorts are my favorite attire. I ’ve bought a type of shoe that I have never heard of called “approach shoes.” Those and flip flops are the non-climbing footwear of choice. I wear my approach shoes and Patagonia climbing pants to work without irony and flip flops everywhere else.   

I’ve also discovered that there are similarities between competitive running and climbing. First, as in high level running, I am competing against myself and seeking to find the limits of my potential. Second, climbers rival competitive runners in their ability to suffer for long periods of time. Just as I learned to keep up a good pace when everything in my head is telling me to stop, I am learning to hang on (literally) when all of my senses and my brain say it’s easier to just let go. In track and cross country races, I would always know that the “voice” would appear, telling me “it’s okay, treat the race as a training run, slow down and take it easy.” The “voice” has reappeared when I am trying a project that is beyond what I think is the limits of my ability. Fingers screaming, arms throbbing inevitably lead to the voice’s reappearance. I feel triumphant when I can tell the voice to shut the hell up and keep going. When I look at the other climbers, I think it’s a safe assumption that they’ve gone through this rite of passage.   

As the months passed, my obsession with climbing got more intense. I was watching climbing videos on youtube. Chris Sharma, Hans of course, Akiyo Noguchi and the young phenom, Ashima Shiraishi, a 14 year old who climbs routes few others can while blowing bubble gum bubbles and giggling. I also discover the so called underground writing scene. Brenden Leonard, Luke Mehall and the other denizens of the climbing zine. For “fun” on road trips for work, I listen to Chris Koulous’ Enormocasts in the car. Yes-I have ADHD and focusing on climbing is easy, the hard part is not ignoring other important parts of my life, like work and chores around the house.

I’ve made friends, both in person and the on-line variety through our shared love of climbing. It’s been amazing to me that people like Hans Florine, Kathy Karlo, Luke Mehall and Leslie Kim and many others have responded to my emails and questions. Climbing is really almost as big a community as it is a sport. Still, I would have to say, my partnership with my son in-law, Rick Smith has been the most satisfying. He too, has caught the climbing bug. So much so, that when I suggested we build a climbing wall in his garage, he didn’t hesitate for a second. The photo on my profile is the first phase of what we call “Smith Wall.”

Another change was that the occasional acknowledgement of my efforts by one of the accomplishments would have me beaming for days. Unless Hans is in the gym, I am at least 25 years older than any of the other climbers. About 4 months into my Gumby year, my son in-law and I did a top roped 5.10b that had an overhang. We finished it and were standing around when one of the uber climbers-shorts, no shirt, long Fabio like hair comes up to us and says-“hey, I was watching you guys and your footwork was really good.”  Man, I floated out of the gym that night. Silly when you think about it. But, climbers helping other climbers is an integral part of the climbing spirit.

As the year progressed and I learned more about the sport, I wanted to take it outside. I discovered some boulders in the town of Vacaville near my home. My son in-law and I went out there with a guidebook. Imagine that-“real rock!” What a joy it was to traverse and work on the basalt rocks. So far I’ve been there 5 times, 3 with him, twice by myself. Each time, I soaked in the views and the solitude. Climbing without background music was sublime. Which, I suppose  is the “old guy” in me.

Then I went to a small crag in Berkeley with my cousin Dave Altman and received a lecture on anchors for 45 minutes (some of which I remember, I think) and then I went up a couple of 5.8’s.  I quickly discovered that a 5.8 outdoor climb were harder and much more fun than the 5.10’s in the gym. I also discovered that unlike in other sports, my small hands were quite “handy” for fitting in narrow cracks. Something about suffering in an off width crack is appealing to me and is definitely on my list of “to do’s.” 

Yes, it’s true, I’m not an authentic climber if by that you mean someone that trad climbs in Yosemite, sport climbs at Smith Rock or boulders every winter in J-Tree. As of December 2016, I haven’t placed a cam in a crack or even sport climbed. And while it’s no shame in being a Gumby, I’m trying hard not to be seen as a poser as I go through my Gumby years. So, if you see my gray haired skinny assed self at the Diablo Rock Gym, try not to laugh as I struggle up a 10c or 11a. Thanks.

I DON’T RECOGNIZE THE MILLENNIALS THE SOCIAL CRITICS ARE DESCRIBING

In article after article, the press and other opinion writers wring their hands about the millennial generation. They complain that the people in this generation are wimpish, selfish and spoiled. I don’t recognize these characteristics in my daughters or other people I know. The people who have these characteristics are I believe, a very vocal and politically savvy minority. That said, the minority should be listened to and treated as adults even if at times they act childishly.

Safe Rooms & Triggering in Colleges

In the articles criticizing  millennials, this hot topic has been Exhibit A in showing that this generation of people are weak and are demanding to be treated as children. Say a so called “triggering” insult to my kids and they will respond directly and I guarantee you will not like it.  As their parents, this is what we taught our children to do. We didn’t tell them to find a safe place and play with dolls or color. We taught them to stand up for themselves, to think for themselves and to have a work ethic. At no time did any of my daughters complain to me that it was racism that prevented them from accomplishing their goals. They adapted and overcame whatever obstacles they encountered. It is beyond belief that my children are in the minority in this regard.

Lazy Millennials

I look to my daughters, now 27, 29 & 30 and recall that they all were working babysitting jobs in their early teens, worked at stores or restaurants in their late teens, worked their way through college and now work full time jobs. When I go to stores, offices, factories, coffee shops etc., most of the people working are young. Many of them work 2 or 3 jobs. One such person I know, works at a juice bar, a coffee shop and as a security guard. With the money she earned, she bought herself a car. She is learning to do her own car repairs. She is 21 and grew up without parents. I dare you to call her lazy.

Selfish Millennials

Look at any website and do some research on who set it up. Chances are real good, it was a group of millennials. This would include websites such as Fundme and the like. It’s all well and good for billionaires to donate to charity, its quite another thing to help others when you have little income. In addition, most of the members of the Military are millennials. I would call these people unselfish given that they are risking their lives for something other than their selves and often doing so for people who are suffering. When the next natural disaster strikes, take a good look at the volunteers who are cleaning up the polluted water or are gathering food and water for people who’ve lost their homes. To call millennials selfish is a lie.

So if I’m correct that the majority of the people in this age group aren’t being wimpy, selfish or spoiled, why then are they described as such? My theory is that: 

(1)       Power is gained by college administrators by promising to address this so-called problem
and they use it to enlarge their budgets and justify higher tuition costs.  

(2)       The administrators fear losing their jobs because of a vocal minority. This is a reality and    face it, academics rarely have spines of steel.

(3)       Anger of the students who see a bleak future for themselves and need someone to blame.      Some people have always blamed their poor choices on others and see themselves as victims. This has nothing to do with which generation you were born into.

(4)       Some so-called adults want to deny that the college students complaints have some            validity. It’s a lot easier to tell someone to shut up then it is to sit down with them and listen. It’s also difficult to have empathy for someone who is screaming at you.

How to Respond

If I were a college administrator, here’s is how I would respond to the students at Missouri. First, I’d meet with them and listen. Second, I’d make it clear that while I will take their complaints seriously, in order for me to take them seriously, they need to act like adults and not children. tantrums are not convincing. Third, I would bring in outside people to get some independent opinions on the complaints. Finally, I would act on those complaints that are legitimate and explain respectfully why other complaints are not legitimate. All meetings would be recorded and made public.  

So stop the hand wringing

We older people should take a good hard look at ourselves and stop pointing fingers at the millennials. After all, they are our children, grand-children, nephews, nieces etc and WE KNOW our family members aren’t lazy, selfish or wimpish, right? Stereotypes are always the tool of the lazy or the media wanting to sell newspaper or attract an audience to their shows. Let’s not fall into that trap. Baby boomers, Gen X-ers and Y-ers are labels too. Don’t be a label, be an individual and treat others as individuals too. 

Why I love running in the rain

Let’s just get this out right away, my fondness for running in the rain may have more to do with being born in Eugene, Oregon in November. I’m sure it was cold and raining and I am equally sure, upon exiting my Mother, I was screaming to get outdoors. My other reasons for loving to run in the rain, sleet or snow are:

1)         There are less people. By that, less people on the sidewalks and nobody on the trails. Just        me, some deer and the occasional rabbit. Nobody to dodge or slow down for and even  better, nobody on horseback demanding I get off their trail. On the sidewalk, less people mean less dodging the slow walkers waddling their way to the mall or the groups of  women (sorry ladies-I've never had this problem with men) walking side by side while chatting who ignore my polite requests to get past.

2)         It’s quieter. Even when I’m running on the sidewalk, the rain, wind etc. muffle the urban sounds. It’s possible to think. On the trails, the silence is even more sublime. Just the sounds of my feet, breathing and the occasional animal sounds-birds chirping or rabbits   scurrying through the brush.

3)       The snakes that can pop up on my trails when its warm are buried deep in their holes and           they are welcome to stay there until summer.

4)         Most of my competition (the Geezers) aren’t on the trails. If they’re working out, it’s in     the gym. Sorry fellas, walking the stairmaster will never equal going up the steeps. Rainy day runs will be a fond memory when things get grim during a race. I will know that I can run keep running no matter what the conditions are. I will have an edge.

5)        Sometimes, if I'm up high enough, the rain turns to snow and then its heavenly fun and I laugh and smile the entire run. 

Note-this is by no means a call to encourage people to get out and rain in the rain. Please don’t. I want to be alone on the trails. 

My review of the Hoka One One Speedgoat

HOKA ONE ONE SPEEDGOAT

Earlier this year, Hoka One One, the French/US company released the Speedgoat. This shoe was co-designed by Karl Meltzer, one of the great US runners over the past decade. Meltzer has won dozens of 100 mile races in the US. His favorite shoe was the Hoka One One Rapa Nui. I too, am a fan of the Rapa Nui and have been looking forward to trying this shoe on my local trails of Mt. Diablo in Northern California.

Like the Rapa Nui, the Speedgoat does not have the huge midsole of the Stinson, Bondi and other Hoka One One shoes. Runners with poor form and who don’t have normal to high arches should not buy this shoe because it is not a stability shoe, although it is stiffer than the Rapa Nui. Some runners who supinate have stated in their reviews that the midsole was too soft on the outside of the foot resulting in a noticeable lean to the outside. For myself this wasn’t an issue. I would suspect that lighter runners would be less likely to experience this than heavier runners.  

There are two big differences between this shoe and the Rapa Nui. First, the toe box of the Speedgoat is noticeably narrower than the Rapa Nui. For myself, I liked not having my does slide around, especially when I was running through rock gardens. I normally wear a thick Drymax sock, but, for those runners who find the toebox narrow, I would recommend switching to the Drymax thin socks.

Second, the vibram sole has nobs that are huge. I loved the sole, going uphill with these was like having 4 wheel drive. The shoes gripped the loose sand stone on the trail which made for a much more efficient stride which of course equals more speed with less effort. But, it was on the downhills where I noticed a big difference between the Speedgoats and the Rapa Nui’s and Solomon shoes I used to wear. The sole gripped the rocks and loose sand stone soil and I was much more confident and was able to relax and run downhill much faster.

I give this shoe a grade of 4 and a half stars. I took off a half a star because the colors are a bit clownish. That said, I would recommend this shoe to most runners.